In recent years, we’ve seen a vintage revival on the red carpet, from Jennifer Aniston in John Galliano-era Dior at the 2020 SAG Awards to Zendaya in Noughties Versace at the 2021 BET Awards. Not only is it a more sustainable choice, choosing an archival look can also help the A-list stand out from the crowd via a rare or one-off piece.
While the likes of Dior, Versace and Thierry Mugler have all been popular vintage choices of late, there’s a whole host of untapped archival gowns that we’d love to see on the red carpet this awards season. Below, five vintage dealers to the stars share their ultimate looks.
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Condé Nast Archive1/10Alexander McQueen spring/summer 1999
“I have so many favourite designers with incredible dream dresses, but this dress kept coming back to mind. The theatrics and art of it make it such an iconic dress: just a simple white cotton muslin and tulle gown before the spray paint was added by robotic arms during the show. If the Met would loan it, I would love to see Billie Eilish in it.” – Kerry Bonnell, Archive
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Pierre VAUTHEY/Getty Images2/10Alaïa spring/summer 1986 couture
“A holy-grail dress for me is this one worn by Grace Jones. This would absolutely be a show-stopping moment on the red carpet. I could see this dress being worn by Zendaya; the colour and fit would be amazing on her.” – Natasha Fields, NN Officiel Vintage.
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Condé Nast Archive3/10Maison Margiela spring/summer 2001
“From the beginning of his career in 1988, Martin Margiela referenced vintage clothing and objects of the past by integrating pieces that already existed into his designs. This leather halter top is an exceptional example of this. Staying true to his simplistic but extremely innovative taste, he used ’70s vintage leather gloves to create this subtly sexy and uniquely timeless halter top. My vote is always more Martin Margiela on the carpet!” – Alexis Novak, Tab Vintage
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Condé Nast Archive4/10Mugler spring/summer 1998 couture
“This dress literally makes my heart rate jump when I watch the videos of it coming down the runway. It’s so classy and elegant yet extremely sexy and wet-looking. I can imagine Taylor Russell in this gown walking the red carpet looking like a dreamy mermaid.” – NF
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Courtesy of Alexander McQueen6/10Alexander McQueen autumn/winter 2010
“[Lee] McQueen’s final body of work – the poignant “Angels and Demons” – is today’s rarest and most sought-after contemporary vintage fashion collection. Every detail on this dress, from the jewelled and latticed bodice, to the clustered metallic gold sequins and the signature heavy pleats is painstakingly precise. It would be such a major red carpet moment.” – Marie Blanchet, Mon Vintage
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Condé Nast Archive7/10Chloé spring/summer 2000
“I am a big Chloé by Stella McCartney fan because the pieces are feminine but still elegant with an edge. This spring/summer 2000 look, which was worn by Gisele Bündchen on the runway and Britney Spears on the red carpet, is a fun piece of history. I would love to see this piece on [someone like] Emily Ratajkowski.” – Marie Laboucarié, Nina Gabbana Vintage
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8/10Romeo Gigli spring/summer 1990
“I’d love to see any look from this collection. It is so romantic, all the textures, colours, and exaggerated shapes. I just love everything he designed.” – KB
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WWD/Getty Images9/10Fendi spring/summer 2005
“I would love to see some of Karl Lagerfeld’s work on the red carpet in 2023, since he is the theme for this year’s Met Gala. One of my favourite collections from [his time at] Fendi is spring/summer 2005. One dress in particular stole my heart: a bright yellow gown with a slit running up the leg. I love how Bella Hadid is so dedicated to wearing vintage designer pieces on the red carpet and I think this dress would look fantastic on her.” – ML
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Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images10/10Paco Rabanne autumn/winter 1988
“This gown is so effortless yet intricate. The mix of the classic Paco Rabanne metal disc work on the bodice with the chiffon tent shape of the skirt with a leaf-like pattern would make this a show-stopping red carpet look. It has elegance with an edge.” – AN